Red Hook Ballfields

I rode bikes with Ryan W. down into Red Hook on a recent muggy-hot Saturday. From under the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, past the old factories, down the pot-holed streets and through somewhat dilapated housing, a magical land of white and blue canopies on the edge of a soccer field comes into view. Griddles and coolers are everywhere. Hotness and sweat. People, kids, birthday parties, balloons. Spanish chatter. Serious soccer game. Simple and amazing food. It looks like a giant family picnic, but the good news is that everyone is invited.

This is the kind of food experience that requires a little bit of orientation. It looks slightly chaotic with people in lines and not in lines. Every tent seems to be a different Latin American country. We decided to visit the El Salvador canopy, which was by far the most popular-looking, as determined by the long line. There was a forever wait under the canopy with the hot griddles blowing smoke and toasting our already sweaty and hungry selves. A small, fleeting suffering to pay for the comestibles. Plus the women preparing and cooking the food were unquestionably twenty times more hot than we were. Ryan made the genius move of getting a mango-on-a-stick to share for the line waiting. The ripest, sweetest mango I've ever had in this town. For $7 (both of us) we shared queso and jalapeno pupusas - the fried corncakes of El Salvador - with salsa and pickled cabbage on the side, and a sweet pile of platanos with frijoles and cream. One dollar for a sweetly chilled Coco helado on the way out and life has never been better.

The vendors have been at the ballfields every Saturday and Sunday for a long time - the one we went to, since 1990. After excitedly telling some friends about this food mecca, I heard numerous casual rumors that the vendors would be forced to leave if not in compliance with NYC Department of Health. If this happened, something very good about Brooklyn would be gone. Like the rug suddenly ripped out from beneath. The only thing I can do is to go back again this weekend, get the grilled corn, some empanadas and share the love with my friends.

Red Hook Ballfields
Clinton and Bay Streets
Red Hook, Brooklyn