Saturday, April 28, 2007

Where am I eating? Milan's...




Michelle, Christian and I crossed the Park Slope boundary into Sunset Park on 5th Ave and went to one of the only Slovakian/Czech restaurants in the city. Outside, we had one of those great moments where the group pauses and debates (mentally and with each other) about whether to go in.
We went in.

None of us could have dreamed up this place. Actually, we better shake out of the Park Slope brainwash because separately we had all imagined a trendy German place, 5th ave style, dark wood tables and bar with perhaps a log cabin-like interior. Thought I might mingle a little with 20-somethings neighborhood folk at the buzzin' bar.

It was all green inside - green walls, green floors, green checkered tableclothes. Briiight lights. We were the only customers. All the Milan "Guys" were at the congregated at the back table.

I think Milan himself waited on us. He brought out heavy, saucy, dense foods. Luckily it had been raining all day and we were all set for the stick to your ribs type of food. Michelle said that Christian's stuck to him for most of the weekend. We had potato pancakes, goulash, saurkraut, potatoes, meat, and dumplings - which are not what you think but is in fact steamed bread. And we had Czech beer. We all liked the beer.

Buuut, the food is not for everyone. However, if you are a fan, this place has been reviewed favorably for certain dishes. Supposedly, when in town, famous Slavs go there to eat.

Milan's
710 5th Ave (between 22nd and 23rd Sts)
Sunset Park, Brooklyn
New York
718-788-7384
http://www.milanrestaurantny.com/

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

We made gnocchi!


Alix and I are moving into new culinary dimensions with our cooking. First of all, we will eventually end up writing a cookbook highlighting various underappreciated foodstuffs. Parsnips will be the subject of the first chapter. We know of no others who like parsnips the way we do. Sometimes peppery, sometimes sweet, this root vegetable has been the subject of several of our email conversations. Oh, we are high caliber.

We made a parsnip soup combining a potato, a parsnip, a leek, and an onion. Root vegetable heaven.

Alix had suggested making a sweet potato gnocchi, which I would have assumed to be an all day cooking affair. But in fact, she mixed and rolled out the dough while I put together the soup. We had the gnocchi with a simple sauteed fresh spinach, garlic and tomatoes. And of course finished our meal and talking around 1:00 am. And this was partly because we began scheming for a summer cook-off event...oh, this will show up in your local newspapers...

And in other big news, after 10 weeks of physical therapy Alix can walk again!

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Brazil and Cupcakes


Now that the weather is getting better, we're moving into hunting and gathering mode in the West Village. I'm not looking for berries, but in that neighborhood you're often looking for the "great restaurant" of which you are "pretty sure" of the location. It's like a fun food challenge.

Emilia was pretty sure she knew where the great Delicia Brazil was, one nice Friday evening. Sebastian and I followed our friend and her intuition through the streets until she found the tiny, basement level bungalow-esque Brazilian restaurant...somewhere around there.

We sat right down at prime time and had a GREAT meal. It was a long wait for the food. But if you are with good people and willing to drink caipirinhas while drawing with crayons on the paper tablecloth, then all is worth it. We were also entertained and paying very close attention to a table full of stunningly attractive Latin American men across the room. We found one for each of us without much trouble.

Our appetizer came by the time the real hunger set in. Pao De Quiejo - if you like bread and cheese married in one fluffy roll, this is perfect. For the main plate, I had Camarao Na Moranga - shrimp, onions, tomatoes, red pepper in coconut cream sauce over baked butternut squash. Oh, it was divine. They have other traditional Brazilian stews, and a prix fix that includes appetizer, main dish, and dessert.

On our way out of the West Village we stopped for midnight cupcakes at Magnolia Bakery, which in cupcake-craze land is famously one of the first places to really showcase the treat in NYC. According to my cupcake research, I find there are several other places in the city that are perhaps an outgrowth of the Magnolia genius. So, I will keep eating them. And I'm happy to forage in the West Village any time.


Delicia Brazil
311 W 11th St (between Greenwich and Washington Sts)
West Village, NY
212-242-2002

Magnolia Bakery
401 Bleeker St (and W 11th St)
West Village, NY
212-462-2572

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

From the archives: Malatesta Trattoria


I eat much faster than I write, therefore sometimes food experiences get backed up. This is good for a night like tonight, when it would be very boring for everyone to read about my leftovers. I can recall one of my last great meals and give you all a new restaurant to try.

So if you're not tired of hearing about Italian food, I will tell you about Malatesta. Nathan and I went there on a recent Sunday night.

Malatesta can be kind of fun to find, like a game of wandering 'round the tilted perpendiculars of the West Village. I mean, fun if you're not starving like Nathan was, but thankfully he has a good sense of humor and believes I will eventually lead him to good food. Enter the cozy, glowing oasis on the corner of Washington and Christopher Streets and have a seat. It's a buzzing atmosphere (how else do you describe people having a good time?) with at least one incredibly handsome waiter. He will give you extensive eye contact if you do the same.

We started with verdure alla griglia and a crostini misti with four different toppings - a funghi, gorgonzola, bruschetta and a proscuitto with fresh mozzarella. The gorgonzola had eye rolling qualities, meaning look slowly toward ceiling and wish you never had to swallow. We sipped on a carafe of Pinot Grigio and had our usual great conversation. Out came the pasta - I had a spinach gnocchi soaking in a sauce of that amazing gorgonzola. For dessert a perfectly light and creamy panna cotta with strawberry sauce. Nothing fancy, any of it, just really satisfyingly delicious. Afterward we somehow found our way back through the West Village again and spent several more hours at the favorite V Bar with the good wine, Lambic Framboise and perfect atmosphere. Here's to Sunday evening - may it never be spent in front of a television.

Malatesta Trattoria
649 Washington St and Christopher St.
West-West Village, New York
212-741-1207

Friday, April 6, 2007

Spring Italian Dinner Party - La Felice Vita!



Ann asked me to housesit and then encouraged me to throw a dinner party. She told me that her house has great party karma, and that, in fact, if I had a bad party it had to be my fault.

It was a very good party.

Once again we find there is something magic about putting a bunch of good people in a good space with food and wine. That, after all, is the food effect I have been trying to describe in entry after entry. I put together a fairly simple menu and invited the most charismatic and friendly people I know, asked them to bring wine and figured all would take care of itself. This was true.

Ann's house is big and at the same time cozy. The dining room is all warm, deep wood and goldenrod colored walls. Wonderful tiles with barnyard animals and vegetables line the kitchen and breakfast bar. Ann had told me no matter what, everyone would congregate in the kitchen and dining room, despite the other fantastic spaces.

Luckily, Emilia is now visiting from Rome, and she came over to help me prep the afternoon of the party. We chopped, pureed, mixed, sauteed, simmered, and talked and talked for hours, not believing the time had passed so quickly. My wonderful friends began rolling in after work and school, carrying in bottles of wine. Drinking and eating antipasti, everyone gathered near Ann's big, round wooden table, which was filled with crusty bread, fresh mozzarella, proscuitto, sopresseta, and verdure misti - zuchinni, yellow squash, carrots, and fennel - roasted with capers, garlic and olive oil, and bowls of two simple spreads of kalamata olives and sundried tomatoes, both floating in pools of a piney, herby and sweet olive oil. There was a huge ensalate of mixed greens, beets, cucumber, dill and green onions, with a olive oil, fresh garlic and lemon juice dressing.

Being hostess means one is not quite as carefree as the guests, but one still gets a nice bird's eye view of the whole scene. Every now and then I floated around and just listened to the great conversation, glad to hear that even the small talk was lively.

The pasta came out and the people all lined up. There were two pastas - one rotini with roasted red pepper, artichoke hearts, olives, mozzrella and fresh parsley. The other was a pasta primavera, a linguini with crisp green beans and asparagus, a light creamy sauce of parmaggiano-reggiano and pine nuts, and topped with fresh basil and grape tomatoes sauteed in balsamic vinegar and fresh garlic. I was not sure how to make pasta for 20 people, but it practically made itself.

The pasta and bread did not slow anyone down - the merriment continued when Ann's little poodle, Grace, came to visit, jump around and sniff about. I pulled the pears out of the oven, which had been roasting and simmering in butter, apple juice and brown sugar, dolloped them all with vanilla ice cream and watched everyone spoon feed themselves.

The trickling out of guests began around eleven, but the dinner party die-hards stayed until after four in the morning, when the tired hostess had to end the shenanigans only because she had to catch a train the next day.

La felice vita! Grazie, amici.

Party Styles

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Chiles y Chocolate



I am very into food combinations, especially unlikely ones. To most, the idea of putting together chilies and chocolate in a suace is a strange one. But at a very fundamental level, you have the hot and the sweet coming together. And not just sitting in the same dish, but melding together in a most sensually complex way. And thus you have: mole.

Carlos and I had been wanting to try this new Oaxacan restaurant in Park Slope for some time now. Well, for a few weeks. But those weeks are interminable when mole is on the other end. Chiles y Chocolate is a tiny, narrow place that is painted entirely in the rich brown, almost mahogany, shade of mole. Tables are small and round, and we were lucky enough to sit on a pedestal in the window, overlooking the entire mole scene.


We started with the quesadillas antiguas with a vegetable filling of huitlacoche ragout (smoky little mushrooms) and nice, melty cheese. We ordered two entrees to share, the mole negro and a mahi mahi with chipotle, chocolate and mango salsa. My mahi mahi came from the platos modernos side of the menu and Carlos's mole from the platos tradicionales side. I have to say, tradition is far superior to modernity in this case. The fish and its sauce sounded potentially amazing, and had beautiful presentation, but ultimately tasted like not much of anything.

But the mole.

It defies description.



Just go there and consume it.

For dessert we had tamales dulces with oaxacan chocolate and raisin filling. Oh, wow. And wash that down with the namesake chiles y chocolate drink with chipotle essence spread lightly on the inside of the cup. The sweet and spicy goes on forever at this place.

Chiles y Chocolate
54 7th Ave and Lincoln Place
Park Slope, Brooklyn
718-230-7700

Photo credits: Carlos